I Really Love French Wine - Revisiting A Syrupy White Signed Gascony






     It's been about two years since I reviewed this sweet southwestern French golden white from near the Spanish border. It comes from the French winemaker Louis Blanc who remains as incognito today as he was then. The bottle carries the plebian Vin de Pays appellation dating back to 1968; the specific appellation is Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne. It is not really all that specific because it includes reds, roses, and whites, many from relatively unknown grapes. Gascony is in southwest France, not far from the Spanish border. The Gros Manseng is allegedly less elegant than its smaller cousin, Petit Manseng. I am somewhat familiar with these two grapes. During my wine courses I tasted a few hundred wines, only one of which made me jump up and down. It was a sweet white made from the Petit and Gros Manseng grapes, albeit from a part of France near the Swiss border. In a real change of pace we decided on a red Georgian as our companion wine. After all, they are both sweet. And the two winemakers share the absence of a web site.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Domaine de Roustits Moelleux Gros Manseng (No Vintage) 12 % alcohol about $20. There were no marketing materials so let's start with my sight translation of the back label. "Syrupy white wine, goes well with the most delicate dishes. Great with foie gras. Drink chilled. " And now for my review.

At the first sips this drink was very long with great balance and acidity. It had a burnt taste. Spinach and cheese in puff pastry appetizers had the effect of intensifying everything. The main dish was an omelet perked up with a combination of basil leaves, cilantro flakes, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and chicken powder. In response some of the libation's acidity was replaced by roundness. A fresh pear accented the acidity and the honey in my glass.

The second meal began f with Japanese rice crackers and Wasabi peas. In response this potion offered a good balance of acidity and honey. When our Gascony friend met the main dish, slow-cooked chicken, it lengthened and its acidity sharpened. I noted some lime as well as honey. In response to the barley cooked alongside the chicken, this liquid offered grease-cutting acidity. It was elegant. The vegetable, green beans cooked in coconut oil, gave Goldie more of the same; Goldie was mouthfilling. Fresh blackberries rendered the liquid fairly short but intense.

The third meal centered on a roasted salmon filet. In reponse the libation was weak, or perhaps subtle and evanescent. Frankly it was not quite up to the fish. When paired with steamed broccoli its acidity verged on sour but it was delicious. For dessert I had some Haagen Dazs Rocky Road ice cream, brimming with nuts and marshmallows. The ice cream may have been too sweet. I don't review ice creams. But the wine was just too thin.

Final verdict. I still like this wine and I will still buy it again. But it's hardly in the same league as its cousin.






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Levi Reiss authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but prefers drinking fine wine. He teaches computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and a whole lot more. Visit his wine, nutrition, and health website www.wineinyourdiet.com .


Posted on 2014-02-11, By: *

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